Statistical properties of nonlinear random waves over surf and swash zone

Y. J. Cho, Y. S. Cho

Research output: Chapter in Book/Report/Conference proceedingConference contributionpeer-review

Abstract

Statistical characteristics of the modification in random wave field due to intensified nonlinearity in the surf zone and sequential breaking was investigated using Run 1 of Kraus et al.. It turns out that envelope and radiation stresses distribution are severely modified by intensified nonlinearity. Once a breaking is activated in random wave field, a hump begins to be formed in envelope distribution. We also found that the water level rise induced by the excessive momentum flux deficit in waves approaching from a breaker line also have profound effects on phase distribution. With a depth as the length scale of prevailing turbulence in the surf zone, the spectrum of fluctuating velocity was estimated which indicates that high frequency fluctuation motion of relatively small scale is to be energetic as low frequency fluctuation of large scale.

Original languageEnglish
Title of host publicationCoastal engineering and marina developments.Proceedings of the 4th international conference on computer modelling of seas and coastal regions. Lemnos, May 1999.
EditorsC.A. Brebbia, P. Anagnostopoulos, C.A. Brebbia, P. Anagnostopoulos
PublisherWITPress
Pages295-304
Number of pages10
ISBN (Print)1853126861
StatePublished - 1999
EventProceedings of the 4th international conference on computer modellling of seas and oceans. Coastal engineering and marina developments '99. - Lemnos, Greece
Duration: 1 May 20991 May 2099

Conference

ConferenceProceedings of the 4th international conference on computer modellling of seas and oceans. Coastal engineering and marina developments '99.
Country/TerritoryGreece
CityLemnos
Period1/05/991/05/99

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